KRAKOW
Not content to only see Warsaw, we decided to hop on a train south for a three hour ride to Krakow, a beautiful city that dates back to the 7th century. Unlike Warsaw, Krakow was relatively undamaged during WWII. So there remains a diverse and rich display of architecture and historical sites.
We booked an apartment close to the town square for two nights, which was cheaper and better than a hotel.
ON THE TRAIN
It was gray. It was what you might picture had you never been to Poland. You would be right. The landscape in Poland is quite flat and the terrain and country architecture, mostly concrete buildings, not very interesting. There were some industrial areas, and many of the structures we saw were quite run down. Ah, here we go again... boring landscapes. There are some mountains in the south which I hear are quite beautiful. If we'd had the time we would have gone. But mostly what we saw looked kind of like this, though this would be among the nicer views:
Django got quite used to train travel, and really enjoyed it. When a train would stop at a station he would say (and sign) 'more', wanting the train to move again.
Keeping the child entertained during the three hour trip.
First night in Krakow. The Lynge clan went out for dinner at what turned out to be a really good Italian restaurant.
The view from our apartment, one block from the Old Town square.
Across the street from one corner of the largest medieval town square in Europe.
The opposite corner of the square.
"Nice place to chase pigeons if you ask me."
All around town we saw these pretzel vendors. Unfortunately we didn't get around to trying one.
There are an abundance of catholic churches and cathedrals in Krakow.
This looks so very very old.
Another view..
Around town:
The balloon you see in the lower right background is a tethered balloon lifting passengers (who stand on a platform) up 150 meters to see the views of Krakow.
At Wawel castle, a significant place in the Polish culture, with both castle and cathedral.
The cathedral, a seeming hodgepodge of architectural styles. We went inside and even went down into the tombs where many notable Poles are interred.
One thing that really interested me about the cathedral was the floor. It was a checkerboard pattern of dark and light, made of stone or marble. What was compelling was how much it was worn. There were gentle undulating waves of wear from the hundreds of years of people walking upon it. I love cathedrals. They are serious and stern and religious in a way that I just don't relate to, but the architecture and the details are always beautiful and fascinating, or at the very least, impressive.
Statue of Pope John Paul II, who, before he was pope, was the Archbishop of Krakow.
The palace square:
I love this old wall.
KAZIMIERZ
Kazimierz is the old Jewish quarter of Krakow and was its own city once upon a time. There is such a grim history in Poland, especially the one in living memory. Nearly all of the Jews in Poland were killed by the Nazis, only 10% survived. Auschwitz is a day trip from Krakow. It is estimated that 4 million Jews were killed in Poland during WWII (3 million Polish Jews). We learned that in the old town square, near where we stayed, there was once a Nazi rally where Hitler was present. Strange to walk those same grounds. The intensity of the history is still present, and I thought about that when I saw the faces of older people who were alive during that time.
Kazimierz is still somewhat run down, though is experiencing a resurgence, and has a bit of a bohemian element.
Here's an art gallery we came across with an 'art car' out front.
Pretty cool sculpture:
We had lunch in a neat little cafe. Here I'm enjoying some mulled mead, tasty broccoli soup and a Russian style crepe.
A Jewish monument in front of an amazing old stone wall.
A beautiful old building:
Well, lest you have some romantic idea that these beautiful old European cities are unspoiled by the hand of modern capitalism, think again. There is an unfortunate 'Disneyfication' 'that you find so commonly now in old European cities. Anywhere that is a tourist attraction is sure to attract corporations, developers, 'mall-ifiers', and purveyors of the Starbucks ethos (no, I haven't seen any actual Starbucks in Europe, just close knock-offs). Poland joined the EU about five years ago, and thus is still in the early stages of the western capitalistic model. Here is the mall, just like any mall anywhere, with all of the same stores. I bought the most expensive tube of lipstick I've ever gotten. Wishing I hadn't. I am not a fan of malls in the least. The new economy and higher prices must be something of a shock to many Poles. They haven't adopted the Euro yet, and are still using the Zloty. If they adopt the Euro the prices will go up more.
Some flower vendors in the town square. A more old fashioned way to shop.
We saw these old men in the park just before we left Krakow. I think of all the things they must have seen and how strange this 'new' world must be in their eyes.
